How do I adopt a cat or kitten from a shelter?

Shelters take in animals that were abandoned, lost, surrendered or seized, and give them a second chance. Adopting also helps reduce the number of animals put down each year for lack of space.

Pets usually end up in a shelter because circumstances change: too little time, a move, a death, or too little thought before getting the animal. It is rarely the animal itself. Rehoming often follows allergies, the death of an owner, a divorce, a new baby or a move.

A rehoming centre is usually a much more affordable route than buying from a breeder, and good centres give kittens and cats a full vet check and a behaviour assessment first. Adopting is not proven to make you healthier: a 2021 review of 54 studies found positive, mixed, no and negative effects of pet ownership on owners, so this page makes no health promise.

A cat can live about twenty years and needs daily care and attention. Adoption is a decision for many years: Cornell speaks of 10 to 15 years or more, depending on the cat's age when it comes to you. Check whether a cat fits your situation: costs, space, other pets, time and attention, allergies, and housemates and neighbours.

Cats bring recurring costs on top of the adoption and neutering: food, litter, vaccinations, parasite control and unexpected vet bills. Think about how long the cat will be alone each day, whether there are young children (many cats find small children stressful) and whether the cat can go outside or must stay in.

If you rent, get your landlord's permission in writing first. Charities in the UK ask for this; rental contracts differ by country, so check yours. Make sure everyone in the house is ready for the cat before it comes home, and visit the shelter as a family. Do not give a cat as a surprise gift: the person who gets it must take part in the adoption. Also have a plan for the cat's care if you die or can no longer keep it before the cat does.

Learning about cat behaviour and meeting the cat's needs before it arrives is linked to fewer behaviour problems and closer bonds. In one large US shelter study, about half of the returned adopted cats came back within 30 days. Studies suggest vets and shelters counsel adopters beforehand on running costs, early bonding and living with a cat for its whole life.

The most common way is a shelter or cat rescue, where cats are strays or were given up by their owner. Shelter cats are usually checked, vaccinated, chipped and treated against parasites. Many shelters list their animals on a website and can only be visited by appointment.

Other routes are a rescue or foster organisation, matching platforms, a breeder for pedigree cats, and a private address (a litter at someone's home or a cat to take over). Breeding for profit deserves its own warning. Shelters work with rescue groups, foster carers and sanctuaries. Rescue groups often take hard-to-place animals to rehabilitate them. Fostering is temporary; adoption is permanent.

Cats adopted from foster care were returned least often in one US shelter study (about 7 percent, against 13 to 17 percent for caged or group housing). The authors say the reason is unclear. Smaller rescues and sanctuaries should do home checks, give full health information and offer support after adoption. A cat taken over from an acquaintance or a rehoming website comes with an unknown history and health status.

Some 'rescue' or 'adoption' outlets buy animals from shelters, auctions or puppy mills and sell them with little vet care. Check where the animal came from before you pay. Shelters usually keep a found animal for a waiting period, often around two weeks, so its owner can reclaim it before it can be rehomed. Kittens are most available in spring and summer (UK charities call this kitten season), though they come up all year.

Many shelters work by appointment: you get in touch, staff talk to you and, if it looks like a match, a first meeting is arranged. After a good meeting you may take the cat home that day or agree a second meeting. Some shelters let you talk to a staff member first, then meet the cat, and let you reserve an animal for a short time to think it over. Not all allow animals to go home on trial.

Everyone in the household should meet the cat at the first meeting, because both the person and the cat need to click. Ask first whether a cat you saw online is still in the shelter, because it may already be gone. Some shelters do not reserve animals by email or phone. Bring a valid ID: many shelters ask for it when you adopt, hand over, return or pick up an animal. Bring a proper travel carrier too. Shelters do not hand cats over in boxes, shopping bags or litter trays, and some sell a carrier if you have none; check first.

Some shelters work by appointment only and ask adopters to fill in a questionnaire first. Others have you sign a placement agreement before you take the cat home. Shelter staff explain what a pet means for your daily life and how to care for the animal, and they check whether you suit the animal you have in mind. Intake can include a talk or questionnaire about your home, and sometimes a home visit or a call. Shelters can refuse an adoption when they are not sure of the match: the animal's welfare comes first.

Always get a signed adoption agreement. Spoken agreements are often impossible to prove. A trial period can be written into it so it is binding. This tip is about taking a cat over from a private owner; some shelters do not allow trials. Ask about the adoption conditions, any fees and obligations before you commit, and ask what support the shelter gives afterwards. Some shelters keep in touch with new owners and answer questions after placement. Many shelters ask you to bring the animal back to them if you can no longer keep it.

Do not bring your own cat to the shelter to see if it gets along with the new one. Most cats find it very stressful. Shelters give tips for introducing a new cat to the cat you have. The EU rabies rule asks for a vaccination 21 days before crossing the border, so some shelters do not rehome cats to people living in another country. That is a shelter's own policy, not a general rule.

The adoption fee is a contribution to the shelter's costs. It is not a purchase price, and at some shelters it is not refunded if the cat does not suit you. Adoption fees differ per shelter and organisation, and often include the chip, vaccination and neutering. Neutering can be at the shelter's discretion, so ask what the fee covers.

Shelter cats are usually neutered, vaccinated against cat flu and feline distemper, dewormed, de-fleaed and chipped. Some shelters add a full medical check. A shelter fee often also covers identification and chip registration, a pet passport, a vet check, vaccination, deworming, parasite control and neutering. Some shelters also test for FIV and FeLV.

The fee only pays for the first necessary care. The real cost of the cat is higher, and a cat from abroad is usually adopted for far less than the real costs (vaccinations, castration, blood tests, transport, vet bills). Starting costs for a new cat add up: the adoption fee, equipment, chip and registration, and a first vet check. Yearly costs for food, litter, vaccination, deworming and flea control follow. Ranges for each country are in the country blocks.

A cat offered for free is not free to keep. Once the cat is with you, real costs follow. Pet insurance for a cat is a monthly cost. Ask whether the previous owner has a policy that can be taken over. A long-haired cat needs grooming visits a few times a year, so plan for that cost. Prices differ per practice and shelter.

Think first what cat you want (active and adventurous, lap cat or independent) and what your home allows: a flat usually suits a cat that prefers to stay in, a garden or quiet street suits one that goes out. Decide between an indoor cat, an outdoor cat or a safe middle way, between a kitten and an adult, and between a non-pedigree and a pedigree cat. Most shelter cats are non-pedigree house cats.

Shelter staff know whether an animal prefers to be alone or with others, and whether it does well with children or with one owner. Talk to them about your home so they can match a cat to it. Cats do not always show their true personality in a shelter, so ask staff or foster carers. Stress and past events can make a cat behave differently at home. Spend time with the cat before you decide. A cat that hides in the shelter may be coping with stress: a university study found that shelter cats cope better when they have a hiding place.

Feeling a connection with the individual cat is the most important factor. Personality can differ even between littermates. Ask about the cat's past: where it was born, what it eats, its medical history, character, how it reacted to other animals or children, and whether it copes with being alone. Ask about bite history too. In one US shelter, adopted cats with a bite history were more than four times as likely to be returned.

Kitten or adult: a kitten has to learn a lot (the litter tray, not climbing curtains), so adopting one means raising it. An adult cat has a formed character. Adult and senior cats generally suit homes with young children better than kittens. One cat or two: many cats are happy alone, and a cat is naturally solitary. Bonded cats can be adopted together. Shelters often place kittens in pairs so they learn bite and claw limits from each other. Sources differ on this.

If you already have a cat, one kitten can work, but first check whether your cat wants a companion. Some shelters do not place a kitten with a senior cat, because they often do not match. A cat used to going outside often does not settle in a flat. Indoor-only homes suit some cats, such as cats with health conditions or a calmer nature. Free roaming raises the risk of infections, parasites, traffic injuries and fights.

Stray cats aged 3 to 4 months and older can almost never be kept as house cats: they are shy and it is too late for socialisation. Feral-born cats are not used to people, which is different from cats that were lost or abandoned. Kittens are socialised in their first 7 to 9 weeks. Adult cats can still be socialised, but cats that missed it may need extra attention.

Vets use life stages to describe age. The 2021 AAHA/AAFP stages are kitten (birth to 1 year), young adult (1 to 6), mature adult (7 to 10) and senior (over 10). Age is a guide, and individual cats vary.

A kitten should not leave its mother before about 8 weeks, and some shelters place kittens later (from 10 weeks). Shelters vaccinate kittens in a series; if a kitten is placed before the series is finished, the adopter usually pays for the remaining doses. A kitten from a shelter is usually vaccinated, chipped, treated against parasites and sometimes already neutered. Ask what has been done and get it on paper.

Kittens need vaccination against diseases that can be fatal, such as cat flu and feline distemper. Regular vaccination and deworming lower the risks of going outside. Kittens learn from other kittens, which is why shelters place them in pairs where possible. A pair takes more food, litter trays and time, but gives each kitten company.

Kittens jump onto tables because they like high places. Make the home kitten-proof: keep cords, small items such as paper clips, and string out of reach. Biting, chasing and rough play are normal kitten social learning between about 4 and 14 weeks. Playful pouncing on feet or arms is normal, and the owner should react in a way that encourages good play.

Introduce new experiences gradually, about three new things a day, so a new kitten is not overwhelmed. A kitten that seems fearful needs a slower pace. Check the kitten's health, behaviour and how the kittens were bred.

A free cat is not free to keep, and a free ad is often the first step of a scam (words such as 'free' or 'near you' are often bait). Before you go: search the seller's name, email and phone for bad reviews, see whether the same ad appears elsewhere, and be wary of new accounts or many litters offered at once.

Visit at least twice. See whether the mother is present, the place is clean, and the animals are calm and not fearful or aggressive. The coat and anus should be clean and eyes and nose not running. Do not reserve a cat while you still doubt. Ask for the contract, the chip registration, the vaccination booklet and written food advice. A missing set of papers is a warning sign.

Rules on selling or giving away cats differ by country and region. In some places the giver must have the cat chipped, registered and neutered first, and stays responsible even when it is free. See the country blocks. Most shelter cats are non-pedigree house cats, but pedigree cats do appear, sometimes at a separate rate. A breeder should show contract and registration papers.

Shelters list older cats for adoption, often at a lower fee. Seniors may be cheaper than adults. A calm older cat can be placed well, as long as everyone knows in advance what they are taking on. Many cats show age-related changes by about 10 years old, and face a higher risk of kidney disease, diabetes, dental disease, an overactive thyroid and some cancers. Vets advise a check-up twice a year for seniors and a yearly check for others.

Adopting an older cat means end-of-life decisions can come sooner. Vets can advise on pain management and quality of life. Make the home easy for an older cat: low litter box walls, ramps or steps to favourite places, warm resting spots. Expect extra vet and care costs.

FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus) affects the immune system. It spreads mainly through bite wounds, not through stroking, sharing a room or casual contact. Risk is higher in adult, male, outdoor cats; neutering and an indoor life are linked to lower rates. FIV-positive cats can live for many years with good quality of life when they get regular preventive care and a low-stress home. They get dental disease, skin disease and some cancers more often, so they need more checks.

Shelters and rescues can place FIV-positive cats; some mark them with a label and charge a separate fee. Transmission between compatible neutered adult cats is low, and FIV-positive cats can live with other FIV-positive cats. Vets and shelter vets do not recommend putting a cat down just because it tests FIV-positive. The decision rests on quality of life.

Cats should be tested for FIV and FeLV soon after you take them in, if this was not done. No test is perfect, so a positive result is confirmed another way. Kittens under 6 months can carry FIV antibodies from nursing, so testing before 6 months is not advised. A cat vaccinated against FIV tests positive. FeLV (feline leukaemia virus) spreads mostly from mother to kittens and between cats that groom or share bowls, and can cause anaemia and tumours.

Ask your vet which vaccines suit an FIV- or FeLV-positive cat: guidance says avoid live vaccines in cats with a known retrovirus infection. Some shelters test every cat they place for FIV and FeLV. Ask what happens after a positive test, because it is often not stated.

Set up a quiet safe room before the cat arrives: small, with a door that closes, mostly free of furniture, with a bed, bowls, toys and a litter box far from the bed and food. A bathroom, office or guest room works. Give the cat a hiding place, such as a cardboard box or a screened cat house in a quiet corner, and some height, such as a scratching post with a platform or a wall shelf.

Use one litter box per cat plus one extra, in quiet places that are not moved often. Clean daily and avoid scented litter at first. Provide scratching posts, vertical and horizontal, and trim nails as needed. Scratching is natural: guide it to a scratcher.

Hide electrical cords, close cupboards, make windows and doors lockable, and check that plants are safe for cats. Lilies are especially dangerous. Household hazards for cats include onions, garlic, chocolate, human painkillers, string, plastic bags and ammonia-based cleaners. Swallowed string can cause intestinal damage and surgery.

Choose a vet before the cat comes home. Add the vet and the nearest 24-hour animal hospital to your emergency list. Arrange insurance if you want it, and ask the previous owner for a medical file and the cat's food and toy, so the cat has familiar smells. Keep a carrier for the trip home and for later vet visits.

Take the carrier into the safe room, open it and let the cat decide when to come out. Visit often but let the cat set the pace. Keep the cat in the safe room for the first week, and at least 10 days if other pets live in the home. Do not let a new cat loose in the whole house in the first week.

Hiding is normal and healthy. Never pull a frightened cat out. Do not expect instant bonding; adopted cats may have had several homes and need consistency, gentleness and time. Avoid new visitors for the first few days, keep noise and strong scents low, and make sure children and visitors are cat-savvy. Be at home in the first days. Then leave for short periods and build up slowly.

Keep the food the shelter used. Change food gradually over about a week, because sudden changes can upset the stomach and add stress. Not eating much, an upset stomach, hiding and not using the litter box can be normal in the first days. Contact the shelter or your vet if they continue. A cat that will not use the litter box should be checked by a vet, since soiling is often a sign of illness or stress.

Some cats settle in a few days; others take several weeks or even months. In one study, cats one to three months after adoption had stress levels similar to those in the shelter. Keep an adopted adult cat indoors for the first eight weeks, so it does not walk back to its old address. This is one guide's advice; ask the shelter or your vet.

Introduce other pets slowly, starting with a separate room and scent exchange (some shelters offer a protocol). If problems start, ask the shelter for help early. In one study, few adopters who returned a cat had used the shelter's behaviour team. If it truly does not work, go back to the shelter rather than passing the cat on through an ad. Most returns happen early, usually over behaviour or another pet, and later usually after a change in the adopter's life.

Book a first vet visit within the first days or weeks, and take the records you received. Without a medical file from the previous owner, a vet check is advised. Ask for the vaccination record and the date the next core vaccine is due. A good shelter gives a folder with these details. Ask the shelter whether the cat was tested for FIV and FeLV. If not, tell your vet.

Core vaccines are meant for every cat. Kittens get several doses every 2 to 4 weeks, with the last at 16 weeks or older, and a booster at 26 weeks or later. Which other vaccines a cat needs depends on lifestyle and local disease risk. Adult cats in low-risk homes need core boosters no more often than every 3 years. Some cats, such as outdoor, multi-cat or boarding cats, may benefit from more. The vet decides. Every cat should have a yearly check, with vaccination inside it. Ask the vet to scan the chip at the yearly check.

Cats kept in shelters are at greater risk of intestinal parasites than cats living in a single home. Ask the shelter or vet for the deworming history. Kittens and elderly cats are more at risk. Cat flu (upper respiratory infection) is common in crowded shelters: in nine North American shelters about 17 percent of admitted adult cats developed it, from about 3 to over 29 percent. The viruses can flare up when a cat is stressed. Tell the vet about sneezing or eye discharge in the first weeks.

Medical problems are common in the first weeks: in one cited study, about half of dog and cat owners reported an unresolved problem after one week. Keep up the preventive care vets recommend: vaccinations, flea treatment and worming.

A chip is a small tube about the size of a grain of rice, placed under the skin by a vet. It has no battery and does not affect the cat's health. The chip holds only a number; the owner's data are in a registration database. A chip on its own is not enough: the number must be linked to your contact details in an approved registration database. Whether a cat must be chipped and registered depends on the country and region; see the country blocks.

When you adopt, the shelter normally chips the cat. Ask which database the cat is in, and make sure it is changed to your name and your phone number as soon as possible. The registered keeper is the person who looks after the animal day to day, and the address must be where the cat actually lives. Check the data regularly. Give the chip number as 15 digits without spaces. If the animal is not found in one database, it may be registered in another.

A chip registration in your name is not proof of ownership on its own. If ownership is disputed, papers help: invoices, the chip registration, the vaccination booklet or passport, photos and bank statements. A collar tag with a phone number lets a finder call you without a scanner. When a cat changes owner, through sale or adoption, the registration must be changed to the new keeper, in some countries by both owners together. The vet or the shelter can tell you how it works where you live.

More and more animals offered for adoption come from abroad, often former strays brought in by foundations. Animals from abroad may be used to a very different life, and adjusting can take a while. Do research before looking for a specific cat, choose the foundation with an objective view, and do not let emotions decide. Ask where the animal comes from, its medical documents, socialisation, character and what follow-up the organisation offers. Do not decide only on a photo or a moving story.

A cat brought across a border must meet the import requirements. In the EU these include a chip that meets the ISO standard and an EU pet passport or health certificate. A foundation should also arrange a rabies vaccination and a health declaration. The main infectious risks named for cats are FIV, FIP and FeLV. Symptoms can show only after the move. A foundation cannot guarantee that a test abroad found every disease. A health check on arrival is advised even after a check abroad.

Agree in writing what the foundation is responsible for, including hidden defects found later. Ask the foundation to share all medical information it has. Some organisations abroad play on emotions to earn money, and some regions are tightening the rules for imported adoption animals. See the country blocks. Cats from areas where certain parasites are common may need a blood test, and a repellent insecticide after arrival. Talk to your vet before you adopt an animal from abroad.

Do not bring a stray cat home yourself from a holiday country. Use an organisation that arranges the adoption for both the animal and the new owner. Taking one home does not solve the problem there; supporting an organisation that neuters strays does more. A stray cat is best reported to a cat rescue organisation with experience of strays. They often come on site and trap and neuter.

Chipping and registration exist partly to fight illegal animal trade. Registration data can help inspectors trace violations. Police warn of fake online ads for kittens and pups. After a first payment, extra costs for papers, transport or vaccinations appear and can add up to hundreds.

Warning signs: you are asked to pay a deposit before you have seen the animal in person (ask about all extra costs first); the seller offers to meet in a car park or station, or to deliver the kitten without you seeing where it was raised; you cannot see the kitten with its mother where it was born. A kitten should stay with its mother until at least 8 weeks, and kittens sold at 6 to 8 weeks are a common scam pattern.

More warning signs: many litters or many kittens on offer at once, or a website full of kitten photos (reputable breeders rarely have many kittens available, and photos are often stolen); an unusually low price, poor photos, no video call, a seller who will not give a verifiable address or phone number, or fake breeder pages on social media. Pay by bank transfer under a written contract, so you have the seller's details and proof of payment.

Kittens sold online often do not meet EU health requirements, and are often too young to be vaccinated effectively. They often travel on fraudulent passports. A border survey found Salmonella in 6 of 24 cat samples, but the numbers were small. Suspected illegal trade can be reported to the authorities. Buying a suspicious animal out of pity keeps the trade going. The safest route is a shelter or recognised organisation.