Why do cats scratch furniture, and how do you stop it?
A cat scratches to look after its claws, leave its scent and stretch; you cannot train it away, only point it somewhere better.
Cats scratch furniture and other stuff because they need to: it pulls the worn outer layer off the claws, leaves their scent and a visible mark, and stretches the whole body. It is not spite, and it cannot be trained away, only pointed at something better. Put a tall, sturdy sisal post right next to the spot your cat uses now, cover that spot for a few weeks, and reward every scratch on the post.
Sometimes a problem. Scratching is normal and healthy at every age. It only becomes a problem when it lands on the sofa, and a sudden jump in scratching can point to stress.
What does scratching do for a cat?
- 1
The old claw sheath comes off
A cat's claw grows in layers. Dragging the claws down a firm surface pulls off the worn, dull outer layer, so the sharp claw underneath shows. So scratching does not really sharpen the claw: it removes the old sheath, which comes loose about every four to six weeks. A cat that cannot scratch can end up with claws that do not wear properly. Because cats can pull their claws in, they stay clean and sharp when not in use.
- 2
Scent glands in the paws
A cat has scent glands in its paws, between the toes and in the pads. Each scratch leaves a little of its own scent and a mark you can see. Other cats read it as a message that this place is in use. A cat living alone does the same, because its own smell in its own home makes it feel safe. That is also why it keeps going back to a spot that already smells of it.
- 3
A full-body stretch
A cat scratching a post digs its claws in and pulls, stretching its back, shoulders, legs and the tendons of its paws. That is why cats scratch so often just after waking up, and why a post needs to be tall enough to reach right up.
Why do cats scratch?
Behaviour and surroundings
Claw care
Every catThe most basic reason. Scratching removes the dead outer sheath of the claw so a fresh claw shows. A cat has no other way to keep its claws in shape, and blocking scratching completely can lead to claw problems.
How to tell- Scratches rough, firm surfaces such as sisal, wood or bark
- Thin, curled claw sheaths on the floor or by the post
- Scratches most after waking up
Scent and a visible mark
Every catScratching leaves scent from the paws and visible marks. It tells other cats the place is in use, and it comforts the cat itself. Cats mark most where they walk and where they rest; scratch marks on a wall are a message, not vandalism. A cat may also scratch harder when visitors come or it sees another cat outside. Rubbing with the cheeks is a different kind of marking, like headbutting.
How to tell- Scratches at doorways, corners and next to where it sleeps
- The same spot again and again
- Scratches more with guests or a cat outside
Stretching and exercise
Every catScratching something tall stretches and works the back, shoulders and front legs. Many cats do it first thing after a nap, so a post right next to the bed or the sofa gets used.
How to tell- Stands up on its hind legs against the post or the sofa arm
- Scratches right after waking
- Long, slow pulls with the whole body
Excitement, play and wanting attention
Scratching is also an outlet for strong feelings. Cats scratch when they are excited, frustrated or full of energy, and young cats climb curtains for fun. Some cats scratch to start a game or to get you to look, and then do it most when you or another cat is in the room.
How to tell- Scratches in front of you, looking at you
- Scratches when you come home or near feeding time
- A young cat climbs the curtains, then races around
Wanting something from you
The most common reason for door scratchingA cat scratching a door is usually asking to be let through, and it keeps doing it because it works. The classic case is early morning at the bedroom door: cats are most active at dusk and dawn, so they wake up hungry and wanting company.
How to tell- Scratches at the door of the room you are in, or one it wants to enter
- Scratches at the bedroom door around sunrise
- Stops as soon as the door opens
The post is not as good as the sofa
A leading reason in homes with a postMany cats scratch furniture because the post on offer is too small, wobbles, stands in a forgotten corner or has the wrong surface. A sofa is tall, firm, close and covered in a fabric the cat likes. A cat that has used the sofa for years also has the habit. And a scratched spot smells of the cat, which draws it back.
How to tell- Ignores a short or wobbly post
- Scratches the furniture right next to a post
- Keeps going back to the same marked corner
Stress or tension
Common behind a sudden changeScratching can also be a way to calm down. A sudden increase, especially on spots that are easy to see, or scratching all over the house, can point to stress. Common triggers are a move or building work, a new pet or a baby, tension between cats at home, and a cat outside seen through the window. An unsure cat scratches door and window frames more. The cause is often not the sofa: look at what changed.
How to tell- Scratches more all of a sudden, or in new, visible places
- Scratches door and window frames
- Also hides, eats less, over-grooms or [pees outside the box](behaviour:peeing-outside-the-litter-box)
- Ears sideways or back, wide pupils, tail low
Boredom and too little play
A bored cat with energy to spare looks for something to do, and the furniture is handy. Short, regular play with a wand toy uses up that energy. One survey found that cats played with a lot scratch more, perhaps from over-excitement, so let a game end with a catch and a rest, not escalate.
How to tell- Scratches mainly when the home is quiet
- Damages furniture while you are out
- Calmer after a play session
Physical causes
Itchy skin: scratching itself, not things
A cat that scratches its own body or ears a lot is itchy, and that is a different problem. Fleas, mites, allergies (to flea saliva, some foods or pollen), fungal infections and dry skin all cause itching. Ear mites are a common reason for scratching at the ears. This needs a vet, not a post.
How to tell- Scratches or bites at its skin or ears more than usual
- Hair loss, red skin or scabs
- Ears held flat or folded back
Overgrown or painful claws
RareOld cats, or cats with joint pain such as arthritis, may scratch less and wear their claws too little. Then the claws grow thick and can curl into the pad. Disease of the claw or nail bed is rare but can make a cat chew at its claws. A cat that stops using its post, or pulls at its claws, should be checked.
How to tell- Thick, long or curled claws
- An older cat that has stopped scratching
- Chews or pulls at its claws a lot, or has sore toes
Sofa, door, wall or carpet: where it scratches
- On the sofa, chairs and other furniture
- Furniture is tall, firm, close and often exactly the fabric a cat likes, so it beats a small or wobbly post. Make the sofa less attractive and the post better: put a tall post right beside the scratched corner, tie a smooth sheet tightly around the spot or fit corner protectors, clean off the scent and reward the post. Keep the cover on until the cat has left the furniture alone for some weeks.
- The underside of the sofa
- Cats that crawl under the sofa scratch the hidden underside, out of sight. Tie a smooth sheet firmly around the bottom so the cat cannot get underneath, and put a post next to the sofa where the cat passes before it gets there.
- At a door, in the morning or at the bedroom door
- A cat at a door usually wants through. The classic case is early morning at the bedroom door: cats are active at dawn and wake up hungry and wanting company. It continues because it works. Door frames are also a favourite marking spot, and more scratching there can mean the cat feels unsure, for example when a cat outside is around. Put a post next to the door, play with the cat every day and give the scratching itself no attention.
- On the floor, carpet or a rug
- A cat that scratches the floor often likes a flat surface and likes to keep all four paws down, or it is marking a place. Put down a flat cardboard or sisal scratcher that cannot slide, next to the rug. Do not cover a post in the same material as your carpet, because the cat cannot tell them apart. In one survey cats aged 10 to 14 preferred carpet, while other ages preferred rope. Scratching around the food bowl or the litter box is something else, with its own explanation.
- On the wall or wallpaper
- Scratch marks on a wall are a scent message and a stretch at once. Cats that scratch wallpaper often like cardboard, so put a cardboard scratcher or a wall-mounted board on the spot. Cover the damaged area with a clear, smooth acrylic or plastic sheet until the cat uses the new scratcher. If it keeps going back to one corner, check whether another cat has left its scent there.
- At a mirror or the TV
- A cat that scratches a mirror or a TV is after attention or the reflection, which it may take for a strange cat. Give it a post and some attention somewhere else. We found no study on mirror scratching.
- At the window or window frame
- Scratching at windows and frames more often points to insecurity. If the cat scratches right after looking out, a cat outside may be the trigger. Put a post near the window, at the edge of its territory, where cats like to scratch.
- Climbing the curtains
- Climbing curtains is usually play in a young cat with energy to spare. Play every day with a fishing-rod toy, tie the curtains up out of reach and offer a tall cat tree to climb.
- Just after waking up or coming in
- Cats scratch and stretch after sleeping, and after coming in, a squabble or a mad five minutes, to let off tension. A post by each sleeping place and one by the door covers both.
- Scratching you or your hands
- A cat that scratches a person is usually too excited in play or frustrated, with a stiff body, a swishing tail and ears moved back. Stop stroking before it gets frustrated and play with toys, not hands (see also why cats bite). Wash a scratch with soap and water. See a doctor if you get a fever or swollen, tender lymph nodes one to three weeks later (cat scratch disease).
How to get your cat to use a scratching post
- 1
First watch where and how it scratches now
Which surface, upright or flat, how high and where. A cat sticks to the surface, direction and place it already likes, so the new post has to match. A cat that scratches the sofa arm wants something upright and rough; one that scratches rugs wants something flat.
- 2
Get a tall, heavy post that does not wobble
For an adult cat about 80 to 90 cm or more, so it can stretch out fully, with a broad, heavy base. A short or wobbly post is ignored, and one that tips over can hurt the cat.
- 3
Choose sisal rope, and also offer cardboard and wood
Most cats like sisal rope best, but every cat has its own taste. Cardboard often suits wallpaper scratchers, and a cat that scratches carpet gets a flat scratcher too. In a choice test, cats scratched rope and cardboard more than upholstery fabric or carpet.
- 4
Put the post right next to the spot it scratches now
Or on the way to it, and by sleeping and resting places and door frames. Not in a forgotten corner. Cats scratch where they pass and when they wake; a post the cat never walks past will not be used.
- 5
One scratching place per cat, plus one
Spread over the rooms, and one on each floor. Cats need a choice, and one cat can claim a post and block another. In an owner survey, scratching in the wrong place went down as more kinds of post were offered.
- 6
Make the post inviting
For the first days, rub catnip or silvervine on it, play next to it with a wand toy and hang a toy on it. Do not force the cat. In a test, catnip and silvervine both made a post more popular. Many cats do not react to catnip, so it is a help, not a promise.
- 7
Reward every scratch on the post straight away
With praise, a treat or a stroke. In an owner survey, cats whose owners rewarded scratching on the post used it daily more often (80 percent) than cats that were never rewarded (68 percent).
- 8
Make the old spot less appealing for a few weeks
Tie a smooth sheet tightly around it, fit corner protectors, use clear plastic or a thin acrylic sheet on a wall, or special low-tack furniture tape. Smooth or sticky feels wrong under the claws. Only cover it while a good post stands right beside it, or the cat moves on to the next piece of furniture.
- 9
Clean the scent off
Clean the scratched spot with an enzyme cleaner so it no longer smells of the cat, and sand and varnish scratched wood. A cat goes back to places that already smell of it, and visible marks invite the next scratch.
- 10
Give it time
Keep the cover on until the cat has left the furniture alone for some weeks, then take it off bit by bit. Move a post that is in use only a few centimetres at a time. Too soon or too fast sends the cat back to the old spot. Done every day, you can usually expect a clear change in two to four weeks.
- 11
Keep the claws short
Trim just the tips every one to two weeks, or have soft nail caps fitted. That does less damage, but it does not stop the urge to scratch. Never cut into the pink quick.
- 12
Play every day, and add high places and hiding places
With a wand toy, so it can use up its energy. Energy and frustration are often behind scratching, and a game that ends with a catch is like a hunt.
- 13
If scratching jumps, find out what changed
A move, a new pet or a baby, a cat outside, building work or a moved litter box. Take the cause away, or add hiding places, routines and separate feeding places. Treating the cause works better than blocking the scratching.
- 14
No better after four weeks? Ask your vet
The vet can rule out a physical cause and refer you to a cat behaviourist. In the Netherlands 'behaviour therapist' is not a protected title, so look for a certificate such as SPPD or Certipet. Stress, pain or tension between cats can sit behind the scratching.
Better not
- Do not punish, shout, chase or spray the cat with waterThe cat does not link it to the scratching. It learns to fear you, or to scratch when you are out. One study links verbal and physical punishment with more scratching in the wrong place.
- Do not carry the cat to the post and rub its paws on itMost cats find it unpleasant and then avoid the post, and you.
- Do not try to stop scratching altogetherIt is a need, like grooming. Blocking it without an alternative only moves it to the next piece of furniture and can cause other problems.
- Do not cover the furniture without a better place to scratchWithout a post the cat simply scratches the next thing.
- Do not use strong sticky tape or foil, or rely on repellent spraysIt can damage the cat's paws and your upholstery. Sprays smell strong to people too and need re-applying often. Foil and other unpleasant surfaces do not reduce the urge, they only move it. Many cats just play with foil.
- Do not cover a post in the same carpet as your floorThe cat cannot tell the post from the rug. And soft carpet gives the claws little grip.
- Do not throw away a shredded postCats prefer a torn surface to dig into, and it smells familiar. A well-worn post is doing its job.
- Do not have your cat declawedDeclawing is not a nail trim: it removes the last bone of each toe. It is painful, can lead to lasting pain and behaviour problems, and does not stop the urge to scratch. It is banned in the Netherlands and Belgium, except for medical reasons.
Mention it at the next check-up
Scratching itself is normal and no reason to see the vet. Do go when it suddenly changes, comes with other signs, the cat is itchy, or its claws look wrong. Clip only the tip of a claw, well away from the pink quick; if you are unsure, let the vet or a nurse show you the first time.
- Scratching has suddenly increased or spread over the house, or comes with hiding, eating less, over-grooming or peeing outside the litter box: within a week or two, as this can be stress, pain or illness.
- Heavy scratching at the skin or ears, with hair loss, red skin, scabs or ears held flat: fleas, mites or an allergy are likely.
- A torn or bleeding claw: trim the loose part cleanly and disinfect it; the claw grows back. Go if it does not settle.
- Thick, overgrown or curled claws, especially in an old cat: ask the vet to trim them.
- It keeps pulling or chewing at its claws, or has sore toes.
- After about four weeks of good posts and covers the scratching is no better: ask about a cat behaviourist.
- You were scratched and one to three weeks later get a fever, swollen tender lymph nodes or a pustule on the scratch: see a doctor (cat scratch disease).
What research says
Most owners have a cat that scratches in the wrong place
A little over half to 80 percent of owners say their cat scratches where it should not. In a large internet survey, 70 percent had the problem even with a post in the same room. Published research on scratching is thin.
DePorter and Elzerman, Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, 2019Rope wins, and more kinds of post help
Owners of 4,331 cats filled in a survey. Cats used rope most when it was offered, though owners most often offered carpet. Simple upright posts, and cat trees with two or more levels at least 3 ft high, were used more. The more kinds of post, and the older the cat, the less scratching in the wrong place. This is what owners report: it shows links, not causes.
Wilson and colleagues, Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, 2016Cats choose upright, cardboard and rope
Adult pet cats in a choice test preferred upright scratchers to flat ones, and scratched cardboard and rope more than upholstery or carpet. Catnip and silvervine made a post more popular. We read this through a Dutch cat-behaviour site, not the paper itself.
Zhang and McGlone, Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 2020Scent products for scratching: weak evidence
A review of three small studies found weak evidence that a synthetic paw scent helps on top of a post. In 19 lab cats it raised scratching on a post from about 11 to 44 seconds, another trial of 20 cats showed no clear change, and a 166-cat study funded by the maker reported 89 percent better by owner report. Larger, independent trials are needed.
Goins (RCVS Knowledge), reviewing Cozzi and others, 2013 to 2021Punishment goes with more unwanted scratching
Owners who used verbal or physical punishment reported more scratching in the wrong place. We read this through RSPCA Australia.
Cisneros and colleagues, Animals, 2022Declawed cats keep making the movement, and have more problems
Declawed cats still make the scratching movement, so the urge is about more than the claws. In a study of 274 cats, declawed cats more often toileted outside the box, bit, were aggressive or over-groomed, and had almost three times the back pain.
DePorter and Elzerman; Martell-Moran and colleagues, 2019, 2018
Story or true?
Cats scratch to sharpen their claws.
Scratching pulls off the worn outer sheath so the sharp claw underneath shows. It is also marking and stretching.
My cat scratches the sofa out of spite, or because it is naughty.
Cats do not think in right and wrong. They scratch where they like to scratch. Jealousy of a baby, a dog or a new cat is rarely behind it; stress is a more likely trigger.
A cat can be trained never to scratch.
Scratching is part of being a cat and cannot be unlearned, only directed to the right place.
A spray bottle or a telling-off will stop it.
The cat learns it only gets sprayed when you are home, so it scratches when you are not. And it learns to fear you.
Kitchen foil keeps cats off the furniture.
Many cats just play with it, and unpleasant surfaces do not reduce the urge: they only move the scratching.
Declawing is just a nail trim and solves the problem.
It is the amputation of the last toe bone, with pain and risks, and the cat still tries to scratch. It is banned in the Netherlands and Belgium.
Declawing protects people from cat scratch disease.
The US CDC does not recommend declawing for this. Flea control and washing a scratch do more.
You can wait until the new sofa arrives.
A habit of years is harder to change than a new one. Start with a good post now; the old sofa is not a practice run.
Did you know?
- 4 to 6 weeks
That is how often a cat sheds the outer sheath of its claws, and scratching helps the loose layer come away.
- 5 weeks
Scratching is inborn: kittens start at about five weeks old.
- 80 centimetres
An adult cat scratches an upright surface at about that height, so a post needs to be at least that tall.
- 70 percent
In a big owner survey, 70 percent had scratching in the wrong place even with a post in the same room.
- Number two
Scratching in the wrong place is the second most common complaint of cat owners.
- 1 + 1
One scratching place per cat plus one extra, in different rooms, gives every cat a choice.
Kittens and older cats
- Kitten
Scratching is inborn and starts around five weeks. Give a kitten a post from the start, and several around the house, with a mix of sisal rope, carpet, cardboard and wood, so it accepts several types as an adult. Lure it to the post with play and reward it. In one study kittens liked an S-shaped cardboard scratcher best. Get a kitten used to nail trimming early.
- Older cat
Scratching belongs to every age, so an older cat still needs a post; in one survey cats aged 10 to 14 preferred carpet. Scratching in the wrong place went down with age. Old cats or cats with stiff joints may scratch less and wear their claws too little, so the claws turn thick and brittle and need clipping.
Frequently asked questions
How do I stop my cat scratching the sofa?
You do not stop it, you redirect it. Put a tall, sturdy sisal post right next to the scratched spot, cover the spot with a smooth sheet or corner protectors, clean off the scent and reward every scratch on the post. Keep it up daily for two to four weeks, and remove the cover slowly.
Why does my cat scratch the bedroom door in the morning?
The cat wants in, and wants food or company. Cats are most active at dusk and dawn, so they wake hungry at sunrise. It keeps going because it works. Put a post next to the door, play with the cat daily and give the scratching itself no attention.
Do cats scratch when they are happy?
Yes. Cats scratch to let out excitement as well as frustration or worry, and a stretch after a nap simply feels good. A sudden increase, or scratching in new, visible places, is the time to look for stress.
Why does my cat bite and scratch me?
Usually it is play that got too rough, or frustration: the body goes stiff, the tail swishes and the ears go back. Stop stroking before it gets that far, play with toys and never with hands, and end the game before it escalates. Sudden new aggression with no reason needs a vet check. There is more in why cats bite.
What if my cat keeps scratching itself?
A cat that scratches its own skin or ears is itchy, which is different from scratching things. Fleas, mites, allergies and skin infections are the usual causes. See a vet, especially with hair loss, red skin or ears held flat.
Is declawing allowed in the Netherlands and Belgium?
No, not to save your furniture. It is banned in the Netherlands and Belgium, and the European convention allows it only for medical reasons. It is the amputation of the last toe bone, and the urge to scratch stays. Trimming and nail caps do the same job without surgery.
Do nail caps work, and how long do they last?
Soft caps glued over the claws give less grip and so less damage, but the urge to scratch stays. They last roughly one to three months and come off as the claw grows out. They only suit a cat that lets you handle its paws, and must be fitted properly: ask a vet or a nurse.
Why should you never trim a cat's claws too short?
Inside each claw is the pink quick, with nerves and blood vessels. Cutting into it hurts and bleeds. Clip only the clear tip, and ask a vet or a nurse to show you the first time.
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